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Valentine's History

2/3/2021

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​February has long been celebrated as a month of romance. Valentine’s Day started out as the ancient Roman festival of Lupercalia, a fertility festival dedicated to the Roman god of agriculture and celebrated on February 15th. As part of the festival, unmarried women placed their names in a large urn. Bachelors drew a name and were paired with that woman for the rest of the year. These pairings often lead to marriage.
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Rhodonite Beads
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Hematite Beads
​Lupercalia was deemed “un-Christian” in the fifth century when Pope Gelasius declared February 14th St. Valentine’s Day. During the Middle Ages, both the French and the British believed February 14th was the beginning of birds’ mating season which added to the idea it was a day of romance. By the middle of the 18th century, it was common for friends and lovers to exchange small tokens of affection or handwritten notes. By 1900, printed cards began to replace written letters. 
​Red and pink are the traditional colors of Valentine’s. Red is the color of energy, love and passion. While pink expresses affection, understanding and sweetness. Jewelry, one of the most common Valentine’s gifts, often contains red or pink stones, such as ruby, garnet or rose quartz. In addition to these stones, there are many others thought to attract love and increase passion such as:
  • Hematite, a metallic grey-black stone, is believed to improve personal relationships.
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Multi-color Moonstone Necklace
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Rhodochrosite Pendant

  • Imperial Topaz, a deep golden-yellow stone, is thought to draw love to its wearer.
  • Moonstone, a shimmering white or cream gemstone, is the stone of new beginnings and romance.
  • Rhodochrosite, a gemstone with swirls of pink or red, is said to open the heart and vibrate with love.
  • Rhodonite, a pink or red gemstone often flecked with black, is thought to nurture love and encourage brotherhood.
​​Give that someone special (or yourself) jewelry made with one of these “love” gemstones.
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Gems Are Not Just for Jewelry

4/21/2020

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When I think of gems, I immediately think "jewelry." But gems are used in many other ways. In fact, the majority of gems that are mined are used in applications other than jewelry. Here are just a few.
Corundum is aluminum oxide. It is called ruby when red and sapphire when other colors. Regardless of color, corundum is used as an abrasive for grinding glass and polishing metal. It is made into sandpapers and grinding wheels.
Fluorite is calcium fluoride. It is used as flux in the manufacture of steel and as a catalyst in the manufacture of high-octane fuels. Fluorite plays a large part in the creation of glazed tiles and opalescent glass. It is a source of fluorine which is used for the fluoridation of water and in Teflon coatings.

​Hematite is an iron oxide and the most important iron ore as it is 70% iron. Powdered hematite is called red ocher and is used as a pigment. Purified, ground hematite is called rouge and is used to polish plate glass and jewelry.
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Fluorite
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Kyanite
Kyanite is the major raw material for the aluminum silicate mullite which is used in spark plugs and heat-resistant porcelains. The molds that are used for casting high-temperature metals are often made of kyanite.

​Lazurite is the main component of lapis lazuli and gives it its deep blue color. Powered lapis was used for hundreds of years to make the pigment ultramarine. And, it was probably one of the first eye shadows.
Malachite is green copper carbonate hydroxide. It was ground and used as eye paint in ancient time possibly to ward off the evil eye. It was also used as the green pigment in wall paintings dating back to the 15th century BC.

​Petalite, lithium aluminum silicate, is an important source of lithium. Its high chemical activity makes possible the tiny batteries used in pacemakers and other small devices.
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Petalite
Jewelry Facets provides more information about these and other gemstones.
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2020 Color of the Year - Classic Blue

1/6/2020

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Pantone's Color of the Year is Classic Blue. It is suggestive of the sky at dusk. Pantone calls Classic Blue a timeless and enduring blue hue that brings a sense of peace and tranquility to the human spirit.

According to Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, "We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue we can always rely on."
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This year look for jewelry featuring these Classic Blue gemstones.

Sapphire is the ideal Classic Blue gemstone in both color and meaning. It symbolizes wisdom, virtue, good fortune, faithfulness and sincerity. It is believed to increase/enhance intuition, mental clarity and spiritual power.
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Lapis Earrings
Lapis Lazuli is a rich saturated blue often with inclusions of calcite or pyrite. It is considered to be the stone of truth and friendship.

​Kyanite is a shimmery, translucent blue stone. Its powerful blue hues are thought to inspire calmness, composure, serenity, loyalty and respect.

Sodalite is a rich blue stone that is sometimes confused with lapis. It is thought to dispel fears and promote a clear, insightful mind.
In addition to gemstones, crystal, glass and cubic zirconia beads will abound in this timeless color. Regardless of your budget, you'll be able to find just the right piece of jewelry in the 2020 Color of the Year - Classic Blue.
The Pantone Color Institute, often referred to as simply Pantone, is the global color authority and provider of professional color standards for the design industries. These standards allow the exact same color to be used across a variety of products as diverse as home furnishings, paint, cosmetics, clothing, and linens.
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Magical Metal

5/6/2019

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Metal has been used to make jewelry since ancient times. Gold was first used in 6000 BC! Copper followed in 4200 BC and silver in 4000 BC.

Today, metals used in jewelry are divided into two groups - precious and base. The precious metals are silver, gold and platinum; all other metals are considered base metals.
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Copper, Brass & Bronze Collar
Metals can be either elements, for example iron, copper or niobium, or alloys which are mixtures of elements. Alloys can be a base metal like brass (copper and zinc) or a precious metal like sterling silver (silver and copper). Generally, alloys are created to improve the color, workability or durability of metal.

​The metals I use most are:
Sterling Silver which is an alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper and is often referred to as .925 silver. The copper is added to make the silver stronger and more durable without changing its color.

Copper which is one of the oldest metals in use. I love its warm color, either highly polished or with a dark patina. Copper is easy to shape and a joy to work with.
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Oxidized Copper Bracelets
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Bronze Bubble Necklace
Brass which is an alloy of copper and zinc. I use red brass (also known as jeweler's bronze) which is 85% copper and 15% zinc. Red brass has a color similar to 14kt gold.

Bronze which is an alloy of 92% copper and 8% tin. Its color is just a bit warmer than red brass. While bronze is a little stiffer to work with than copper or brass, I love the color.
Gold fill which is made by bonding karat gold to a base metal, usually brass, using a combination of heat and pressure. By law, to be called gold-filled at least 20% of the metal by weight must be karat gold and the karat weight of the gold cannot be lower than 10kt. The gold-filled wire I use is 20% 12kt or 14kt gold bonded to red brass. Gold filling is much more durable than gold plating.
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Gold-filled Bead & Wire Ring
I'm passionate about making metal jewelry. I love the feel of metal and the very different looks I can achieve with it. View my collections to see all the ways in which I use metal.
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Don't Be Fooled

4/9/2019

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Practical jokes abound on April 1st. Being surprised by a plastic spider is one thing. However, being surprised by an ersatz gem is another.

When they come out of the ground gemstones very seldom look like they do in a finished piece of jewelry. At the very least they are cut and polished. The majority, however, are enhanced in some way to bring out their beauty, deepen their color, or make them look like another, usually more expensive or in-demand stone. These enhancements aren't a bad thing if you know about them.
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Turquoise-colored Magnesite
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Irradiated Smoky Quartz
Heat treatment has been around for centuries; since someone discovered applying high heat to a bland gem turned it into a fantastic gem. For example, heat changes the color of pale amethyst to yellow and the stone can then be sold as citrine. Heating aquamarine removes the green undertones, producing a bluer more deeply colored stone.

Another way of changing a gemstone's color is by treating it with radiation (irradiation). Most blue topaz has been irradiated. Smoky quartz is irradiated to create its color. There are government standards in place to ensure there is little residual radiation before the stones are sold.
Many gemstones, such as lapis, serpentine, coral and pearls are dyed either to improve their color or create unique colors not found in nature. Stones may also be dyed so they look like other more expensive gemstones. A good example is dying magnesite blue/green, which gives the look of turquoise at a much lower price. There is nothing wrong with dying gemstones if you are aware of it.

​One of the oldest treatments is oiling or waxing a gem. Porous stones such as emeralds and turquoise are routinely oiled or waxed to improve their color, luster and clarity.
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Dyed Lapis & Turquoise-colored Magnesite
Without treatment, only the best natural gems and gemstones would be mined and sold. These natural stones would not only be rare but also very expensive.

​Keep from being fooled. Buy jewelry from sources you trust and don't be afraid to ask if the stones have been enhanced. If the price seems too good to be true; it probably is.
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A Tale of Earrings

3/7/2019

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Earrings have been one of the principle forms of jewelry throughout history. They serve as symbols of cultural or tribal identity, markers of age, rank or marital status, or provide protective powers.

​Among the oldest earrings are crescent-shaped gold hoops worn by Sumerian women in 2500 BC. Around 1000 BC earrings started to be embellished with clusters of beads, twisted wire and pendants.
Hammered brass earrings
Ocean jasper drop earrings
Then in the first century AD, the Romans introduced a new earring style: a disk or pendant mounted on a S hook. These styles became more lavish with the addition of colored stones and pearls.

Around 330, the center of influence moved from Rome to Byzantium (Constantinople) and earring styles changed again. Favored styles included hoops with multiple pearl pendants hung on chains and crescent-shaped earrings of gold filigree.
Between the eleventh and sixteenth centuries in Europe, earrings all but disappeared as hair and clothing styles covered the ear. However, by the late seventeenth century earrings once again became an essential element of dress. Earrings during this period were so heavy they had small rings attached so the wearer could tie them to her hair and take some of the weight off her ears. These heavy styles disappeared by the end of the eighteenth century as fashions became simpler.
Recycled glass earrings
Copper & strerling scribbles earrings
Throughout the nineteenth century, designs ranged from long drop earrings to small single-stone and cluster earrings. Cameos and jewelry made of cut steel, seed pearls, coral and jet were popular. With the opening of the South African diamond fields in the 1860's and the introduction of better cutting and polishing methods, diamond solitaires became the most fashionable earrings.

It is easy to see how today's earring styles are firmly rooted in those of the past. Studs, chandeliers, drops and hoops are timeless. 
View More Earrings
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A Little February History

2/6/2019

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February wasn't always the second month of the year. It started out as the last month in the Roman calendar. January and February were added to the Roman calendar about 713 BC. Prior to that time Romans considered winter to be a monthless period. About 450 BC the Roman calendar was re-arranged, and February became the second month of the year. At certain intervals, February was truncated to 23 or 24 days and a temporary 27-day month was inserted immediately after February to realign the year with the seasons. The reforms that created the Julian calendar in 45 BC did away with the temporary month and created leap years which occurred every four years. During leap years, February gained a 29th day. the Julian calendar was replaced by the Gregorian calendar in 1582 which further refined how leap years and leap centuries are handled. The Gregorian calendar is the most widely used calendar today.

Februarius, the Roman name for February,  comes from the festival of ritual purification Februa held on February 15 (full moon) in the old Roman calendar. The festival celebrated Spring washing or cleansing. The festival of Februa was later incorporated in to Lupercalia, a fertility festival dedicated to the Roman god of agriculture. Lupercalia was deemed un-Christian in the fifth century when Pope Gelasius replaced it with St. Valentine's Day. Over the years Valentine's Day became the day to celebrate love and romance
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February's birthstone is amethyst which symbolizes piety, humility, spiritual wisdom and sincerity. Amethyst, from the Greek amethystos meaning "not-intoxicated," was believed by ancients to protect against drunkenness. It is also believed if you place an amethyst under your pillow you'll have pleasant dreams - perhaps about the one you love!

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