​February has long been celebrated as a month of romance. Valentine’s Day started out as the ancient Roman festival of Lupercalia, a fertility festival dedicated to the Roman god of agriculture and celebrated on February 15th. As part of the festival, unmarried women placed their names in a large urn. Bachelors drew a name and were paired with that woman for the rest of the year. These pairings often lead to marriage.

​Lupercalia was deemed “un-Christian” in the fifth century when Pope Gelasius declared February 14th St. Valentine’s Day. During the Middle Ages, both the French and the British believed February 14th was the beginning of birds’ mating season which added to the idea it was a day of romance. By the middle of the 18th century, it was common for friends and lovers to exchange small tokens of affection or handwritten notes. By 1900, printed cards began to replace written letters. 

​Red and pink are the traditional colors of Valentine’s. Red is the color of energy, love and passion. While pink expresses affection, understanding and sweetness. Jewelry, one of the most common Valentine’s gifts, often contains red or pink stones, such as ruby, garnet or rose quartz. In addition to these stones, there are many others thought to attract love and increase passion such as:

• Hematite, a metallic grey-black stone, is believed to improve personal relationships.

Fluorite is calcium fluoride. It is used as flux in the manufacture of steel and as a catalyst in the manufacture of high-octane fuels. Fluorite plays a large part in the creation of glazed tiles and opalescent glass. It is a source of fluorine which is used for the fluoridation of water and in Teflon coatings.

​Hematite is an iron oxide and the most important iron ore as it is 70% iron. Powdered hematite is called red ocher and is used as a pigment. Purified, ground hematite is called rouge and is used to polish plate glass and jewelry.

Kyanite is the major raw material for the aluminum silicate mullite which is used in spark plugs and heat-resistant porcelains. The molds that are used for casting high-temperature metals are often made of kyanite.

​Lazurite is the main component of lapis lazuli and gives it its deep blue color. Powered lapis was used for hundreds of years to make the pigment ultramarine. And, it was probably one of the first eye shadows.

Malachite is green copper carbonate hydroxide. It was ground and used as eye paint in ancient time possibly to ward off the evil eye. It was also used as the green pigment in wall paintings dating back to the 15th century BC.

​Petalite, lithium aluminum silicate, is an important source of lithium. Its high chemical activity makes possible the tiny batteries used in pacemakers and other small devices.

Pantone's Color of the Year is Classic Blue. It is suggestive of the sky at dusk. Pantone calls Classic Blue a timeless and enduring blue hue that brings a sense of peace and tranquility to the human spirit.

According to Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, "We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue we can always rely on."

Lapis Lazuli is a rich saturated blue often with inclusions of calcite or pyrite. It is considered to be the stone of truth and friendship.

​Kyanite is a shimmery, translucent blue stone. Its powerful blue hues are thought to inspire calmness, composure, serenity, loyalty and respect.

Sodalite is a rich blue stone that is sometimes confused with lapis. It is thought to dispel fears and promote a clear, insightful mind.

Sterling Silver which is an alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper and is often referred to as .925 silver. The copper is added to make the silver stronger and more durable without changing its color.

Copper which is one of the oldest metals in use. I love its warm color, either highly polished or with a dark patina. Copper is easy to shape and a joy to work with.

Brass which is an alloy of copper and zinc. I use red brass (also known as jeweler's bronze) which is 85% copper and 15% zinc. Red brass has a color similar to 14kt gold.

Bronze which is an alloy of 92% copper and 8% tin. Its color is just a bit warmer than red brass. While bronze is a little stiffer to work with than copper or brass, I love the color.

Gold fill which is made by bonding karat gold to a base metal, usually brass, using a combination of heat and pressure. By law, to be called gold-filled at least 20% of the metal by weight must be karat gold and the karat weight of the gold cannot be lower than 10kt. The gold-filled wire I use is 20% 12kt or 14kt gold bonded to red brass. Gold filling is much more durable than gold plating.

Practical jokes abound on April 1st. Being surprised by a plastic spider is one thing. However, being surprised by an ersatz gem is another.

When they come out of the ground gemstones very seldom look like they do in a finished piece of jewelry. At the very least they are cut and polished. The majority, however, are enhanced in some way to bring out their beauty, deepen their color, or make them look like another, usually more expensive or in-demand stone. These enhancements aren't a bad thing if you know about them.

Heat treatment has been around for centuries; since someone discovered applying high heat to a bland gem turned it into a fantastic gem. For example, heat changes the color of pale amethyst to yellow and the stone can then be sold as citrine. Heating aquamarine removes the green undertones, producing a bluer more deeply colored stone.

Another way of changing a gemstone's color is by treating it with radiation (irradiation). Most blue topaz has been irradiated. Smoky quartz is irradiated to create its color. There are government standards in place to ensure there is little residual radiation before the stones are sold.

Many gemstones, such as lapis, serpentine, coral and pearls are dyed either to improve their color or create unique colors not found in nature. Stones may also be dyed so they look like other more expensive gemstones. A good example is dying magnesite blue/green, which gives the look of turquoise at a much lower price. There is nothing wrong with dying gemstones if you are aware of it.

​One of the oldest treatments is oiling or waxing a gem. Porous stones such as emeralds and turquoise are routinely oiled or waxed to improve their color, luster and clarity.

Earrings have been one of the principle forms of jewelry throughout history. They serve as symbols of cultural or tribal identity, markers of age, rank or marital status, or provide protective powers.

​Among the oldest earrings are crescent-shaped gold hoops worn by Sumerian women in 2500 BC. Around 1000 BC earrings started to be embellished with clusters of beads, twisted wire and pendants.

Then in the first century AD, the Romans introduced a new earring style: a disk or pendant mounted on a S hook. These styles became more lavish with the addition of colored stones and pearls.

Around 330, the center of influence moved from Rome to Byzantium (Constantinople) and earring styles changed again. Favored styles included hoops with multiple pearl pendants hung on chains and crescent-shaped earrings of gold filigree.

Between the eleventh and sixteenth centuries in Europe, earrings all but disappeared as hair and clothing styles covered the ear. However, by the late seventeenth century earrings once again became an essential element of dress. Earrings during this period were so heavy they had small rings attached so the wearer could tie them to her hair and take some of the weight off her ears. These heavy styles disappeared by the end of the eighteenth century as fashions became simpler.

Throughout the nineteenth century, designs ranged from long drop earrings to small single-stone and cluster earrings. Cameos and jewelry made of cut steel, seed pearls, coral and jet were popular. With the opening of the South African diamond fields in the 1860's and the introduction of better cutting and polishing methods, diamond solitaires became the most fashionable earrings.

It is easy to see how today's earring styles are firmly rooted in those of the past. Studs, chandeliers, drops and hoops are timeless.